Bolivia: Copacabana, Isla del Sol, Sorata, La Paz, Corroico, Salar de Ayuni
Between 30.09.07-22.10.07
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Bolivia: Copacabana, Isla del Sol, Sorata, La Paz, Corroico, Salar de Ayuni
Bolivia: Copacabana, Isla del Sol, Sorata, La Paz, Corroico, Salar de Ayuni
Between 30.09.07-22.10.07
Sunday, November 4, 2007
The Israeli question of WHY?
The Israeli question of WHY?
Since arriving to Peru in South America I received an enormous amount of questions about Israelis. I guess the fact that I do not travel with Israelis and do not stay at the same places as them makes me a bit different and more accessible to other travellers, who ask a whole range of different kinds of questions about my people and their culture and behaviour. I thought that it would be a good idea from now on to refer future questions to this post in order to save me time to talk about other interesting issues, or as my partner´s father often says when asked repeated questions: ´Please read my book... ´ I will say from now on ´Please read my Blog...´
´Why Israelis travel?´
The first and most common question is why so many Israelis travel? The answer to that is very simple. After finishing a service of 3/2 (males/females) years in the Israeli army many feel that they need to blow off some steam. Living in Israel is great and the country offers a lot of different experiences in a very concentrated area. But Israel can often be a very stressful place to live. When u have our Palestinians neighbours exploding in the streets now and then, when u have a war every five years or a special operation in the occupied territories every 4-6 months, what else can u do except travel? Getting out from the presure cooker, having new experiences, adventures, and having some time to relax and reflect is the main reason for Israelis´ travels.
´Why are Israelis rude?´
The political and security situation in Israel brings us to the next regularly asked question: ´Why are they rude? ´ I mean it seems to be a kind of contradiction to what they want to achive - ´relaxation´. But actually, its not a contradiction. We, Israelis, live in a constant war. We call it the war against terror. But it is actually a war against the Palestinians. When u r constantly in a war situation u do not have time for small talk. U need to be very very efficent in trying to get what u want. So conversations in Israel are often very direct. This has advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage from my perspective is that u can get into the most deep and interesting conversations that u ever imagined with people that u met five minutes ago, where they expose their feelings, thoughts and any other issue that is on their minds. But sometimes u really don´t have much time or u r not interested in listening to the whole history of someone that u barely know. While travelling Israelis use these same methods of direct comunication with most people that they meet. This often leads to misunderstandings, where Israelis are often seen as impatient or very demanding.
`Why do Israelis want to pay low prices?`
Israelis often appear to be demanding in connection with them trying to get a low price or the best deal. The answer to this question is divided into two. First, Israelis want to pay less because the Israeli currency is very low compared to the American dollar. As they often want to travel for long periods of time (6 to 24 months) they are trying as hard as they can to save their money and make it last as long as possible.
And why do they want to get the best deal? In the Israeli culture u can´t be the one that is losing, u can´t be what we call in Hebrew ´Frayer´ - sucker. U always have to try and find the best product/service at the best price. So when when Israelis travel they often try and save money while getting the best product. Obviously trying to get the best product at the cheapest pric is a contradiction, but it doesn´t mean u can´t try and get it, because, after all, u don´t want to be the Frayer.
´Why are all Israelis from Tel Aviv?´
And here we come to the question of questions, why are all Israelis are from Tel Aviv when they travel? This question is mine. While travelling I have noticed that Israelis have a weak point about Tel Aviv.
First, I could not understand what happened? Hadera, Netanya, Rechovot is not good enough. Is it so bad being from Israel that u need to compensate youself in some way?: `I am from Israel BUT I am from TA so its not so bad´. I am not sure if I know the answer to this question but I can try and guess.
When I was sitting at a Rosh Hashana (the new Jewish year) meal in Chabad house in Peru I could not stop myself from eavesdropping on a conversation between an Israeli girl and an American girl. After tallking the same talk about the army and the Israeli traveller (which I heard so many times during this trip, that I really feel like I know it by heart), the American girl asked:
`So where are u from in Israel?`
The Israli girl answered: `Tel Aviv`. Without a blink.
I thought - that´s excellent to have someone from my city sitting next to me. So later I asked the Israeli girl:
`So where r u from in Tel Aviv?`
Israeli girl: `I was living the last three months in Nachalat Itschak (north west part of TA)`
Me: `So where r u from?`
Israeli girl: `I`m from Petach Tikva`
I was shocked...
Me: `So why did u say TA?`
Israeli girl: `U know how it is... they don´t know Israel so well... so I say TA.`
I was shocked again.
So let´s say that she is right and `They` don´t know where it is, it won´t make Israel more familiar for them if all that they know about is Tel Aviv. Israel has a lot to offer other than TA. I mean its one of the only countries that I know of that offers such an incredible variety in culture and scenery in such a small landscape, so its really short-selling the country to limit it to one city.
When I was thinking about the different experinces that I had while travelling suddently it all became clear. Often when I was asked by an Israeli where I was from and I answered TA, they did not believe me. Now I started to understand why: because so many others are claiming to be Tel Avivis when they are actually from every place other than TA. So often I was suspected as a pretender and I had to go through harsh questioning. I actually noticed this phenomenon while I was still in Israel. At the age of 15 my friends and I went to the Hebrew songs festival in Arad and when asked by some girls where r we from, we responded with the usual answer. They were amazed: `Tel Aviv...?!`
`Are you really?`
Yes I thought TA, we r not talking about Paris or New York, it´s only a city. But I was wrong. For many people in Israel TA is like Paris. Compared to their village TA has all the things that u want in a big city. A great open diverse culture. Amazing restaurants, excellent live music, theatre shows, ballet, an amazing beach, true 24 hour entertainment options and much more. All these I thought exist in every big city. I was wrong. In Melbourne everyone goes to bed at six in the afternoon. In Tokyo there is only karaoke. In Paris the streets are empty after 10 pm and in Delhi the only people that are awake after midnight are the beggars.
So yes, Tel Aviv is amazing. But other places in Israel offer even more. I now understand the enormous tourist potential that this country has to offer (For example, Jersusalem is the centre for three big religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Its a city with more then 3000 years of history, and unlike many other other historical sites around the world, this place is actually alive; when u enter inside its walls u can feel the vibe, it is pure magic) and I think we need to make the most of it before peace will come and we won´t have any room to move because of all the tourists...
If I can give one piece of advice to my Israeli friends, its to be proud of wherever in Israel we come from, as I am sure it is an interesting place and worth telling your co-travellers and friends about.
Love all, Eran.
Since arriving to Peru in South America I received an enormous amount of questions about Israelis. I guess the fact that I do not travel with Israelis and do not stay at the same places as them makes me a bit different and more accessible to other travellers, who ask a whole range of different kinds of questions about my people and their culture and behaviour. I thought that it would be a good idea from now on to refer future questions to this post in order to save me time to talk about other interesting issues, or as my partner´s father often says when asked repeated questions: ´Please read my book... ´ I will say from now on ´Please read my Blog...´
´Why Israelis travel?´
The first and most common question is why so many Israelis travel? The answer to that is very simple. After finishing a service of 3/2 (males/females) years in the Israeli army many feel that they need to blow off some steam. Living in Israel is great and the country offers a lot of different experiences in a very concentrated area. But Israel can often be a very stressful place to live. When u have our Palestinians neighbours exploding in the streets now and then, when u have a war every five years or a special operation in the occupied territories every 4-6 months, what else can u do except travel? Getting out from the presure cooker, having new experiences, adventures, and having some time to relax and reflect is the main reason for Israelis´ travels.
´Why are Israelis rude?´
The political and security situation in Israel brings us to the next regularly asked question: ´Why are they rude? ´ I mean it seems to be a kind of contradiction to what they want to achive - ´relaxation´. But actually, its not a contradiction. We, Israelis, live in a constant war. We call it the war against terror. But it is actually a war against the Palestinians. When u r constantly in a war situation u do not have time for small talk. U need to be very very efficent in trying to get what u want. So conversations in Israel are often very direct. This has advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage from my perspective is that u can get into the most deep and interesting conversations that u ever imagined with people that u met five minutes ago, where they expose their feelings, thoughts and any other issue that is on their minds. But sometimes u really don´t have much time or u r not interested in listening to the whole history of someone that u barely know. While travelling Israelis use these same methods of direct comunication with most people that they meet. This often leads to misunderstandings, where Israelis are often seen as impatient or very demanding.
`Why do Israelis want to pay low prices?`
Israelis often appear to be demanding in connection with them trying to get a low price or the best deal. The answer to this question is divided into two. First, Israelis want to pay less because the Israeli currency is very low compared to the American dollar. As they often want to travel for long periods of time (6 to 24 months) they are trying as hard as they can to save their money and make it last as long as possible.
And why do they want to get the best deal? In the Israeli culture u can´t be the one that is losing, u can´t be what we call in Hebrew ´Frayer´ - sucker. U always have to try and find the best product/service at the best price. So when when Israelis travel they often try and save money while getting the best product. Obviously trying to get the best product at the cheapest pric is a contradiction, but it doesn´t mean u can´t try and get it, because, after all, u don´t want to be the Frayer.
´Why are all Israelis from Tel Aviv?´
And here we come to the question of questions, why are all Israelis are from Tel Aviv when they travel? This question is mine. While travelling I have noticed that Israelis have a weak point about Tel Aviv.
First, I could not understand what happened? Hadera, Netanya, Rechovot is not good enough. Is it so bad being from Israel that u need to compensate youself in some way?: `I am from Israel BUT I am from TA so its not so bad´. I am not sure if I know the answer to this question but I can try and guess.
When I was sitting at a Rosh Hashana (the new Jewish year) meal in Chabad house in Peru I could not stop myself from eavesdropping on a conversation between an Israeli girl and an American girl. After tallking the same talk about the army and the Israeli traveller (which I heard so many times during this trip, that I really feel like I know it by heart), the American girl asked:
`So where are u from in Israel?`
The Israli girl answered: `Tel Aviv`. Without a blink.
I thought - that´s excellent to have someone from my city sitting next to me. So later I asked the Israeli girl:
`So where r u from in Tel Aviv?`
Israeli girl: `I was living the last three months in Nachalat Itschak (north west part of TA)`
Me: `So where r u from?`
Israeli girl: `I`m from Petach Tikva`
I was shocked...
Me: `So why did u say TA?`
Israeli girl: `U know how it is... they don´t know Israel so well... so I say TA.`
I was shocked again.
So let´s say that she is right and `They` don´t know where it is, it won´t make Israel more familiar for them if all that they know about is Tel Aviv. Israel has a lot to offer other than TA. I mean its one of the only countries that I know of that offers such an incredible variety in culture and scenery in such a small landscape, so its really short-selling the country to limit it to one city.
When I was thinking about the different experinces that I had while travelling suddently it all became clear. Often when I was asked by an Israeli where I was from and I answered TA, they did not believe me. Now I started to understand why: because so many others are claiming to be Tel Avivis when they are actually from every place other than TA. So often I was suspected as a pretender and I had to go through harsh questioning. I actually noticed this phenomenon while I was still in Israel. At the age of 15 my friends and I went to the Hebrew songs festival in Arad and when asked by some girls where r we from, we responded with the usual answer. They were amazed: `Tel Aviv...?!`
`Are you really?`
Yes I thought TA, we r not talking about Paris or New York, it´s only a city. But I was wrong. For many people in Israel TA is like Paris. Compared to their village TA has all the things that u want in a big city. A great open diverse culture. Amazing restaurants, excellent live music, theatre shows, ballet, an amazing beach, true 24 hour entertainment options and much more. All these I thought exist in every big city. I was wrong. In Melbourne everyone goes to bed at six in the afternoon. In Tokyo there is only karaoke. In Paris the streets are empty after 10 pm and in Delhi the only people that are awake after midnight are the beggars.
So yes, Tel Aviv is amazing. But other places in Israel offer even more. I now understand the enormous tourist potential that this country has to offer (For example, Jersusalem is the centre for three big religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Its a city with more then 3000 years of history, and unlike many other other historical sites around the world, this place is actually alive; when u enter inside its walls u can feel the vibe, it is pure magic) and I think we need to make the most of it before peace will come and we won´t have any room to move because of all the tourists...
If I can give one piece of advice to my Israeli friends, its to be proud of wherever in Israel we come from, as I am sure it is an interesting place and worth telling your co-travellers and friends about.
Love all, Eran.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Peru: From Cusco to Abra Malaga, Santa Maria, Huancacalle, Vilcabamba, Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo, and back to Cusco
Peru: From Cusco to Abra Malaga, Santa Maria, Huancacalle, Vilcabamba, Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo, and back to Cusco (From 18.09.07 to 26.09.07).
That was good, that was actually very good. We had a lovely time during our last trip. We got excellent advice from a good friend that we made in the Llanganuco lodge to go to Huancacalle, and not to do the trek from Santa Maria to Machu Picchu (which other local guides agreed was not that interesting). We did a circle from Cusco to Abra Malaga, Santa Maria, Huancacalle, Vilcabamba, Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo, and back to Cusco.
We hired bicycles at Cusco from the agency http://www.adventureteamperu.com/ . On Wednesday 18.09.07 we took a five hour bus ride to Abra Malaga. After arriving we went on a five hour! bike ride. The road was very rough and honestly I would not recommend it to any one. We started the ride at around 01.50 pm instead of 1pm because the bus had a flat tyre that had to be replaced during the trip, so was around 1 hour late. So the last 20 minutes of the ride were in complete darkness. The road goes through a valley and often u can see the river that runs through the valley. The part that was interesting was watching the locals burn the hills to create more agricultural land.
We got to Santa Maria in one piece, and stayed there for the night. As Santa Maria is at low altitude, there are LOTS of mosquitoes, and during the bicycle ride and the night I got something like six BITES on one finger on my left hand. The problem with the mosquitoes there is that they are extremely advanced: very light, small and black in colour. Facts that made them impossible to trace, only after the bite. In the next few days my two fingers of my left hand started to expand dramatically, up to a point that the swelling was pushing my fingers nerve, which made them feel numb. It took me some more days to recover and to get my senses in my fingers back to normal.
In the morning we took a taxi to Huancacalle. And here it was all waiting for us. In a valley surrounded by green mountains a small town sits next to a river, with nice inhabitants and very fresh air. The guest house called Sixpac Manco is run by a nice elderly couple, one of whom shares part of history. The owner Binjamin Cobar was the local guide for two expeditions that came to the area in search of the last & lost city of the Incas, which was eventually ¨found¨ by American Gene Savoy (led by Binjamin): a place called Espiritu Pampa.
In the area of Huancacalle we went on a few day trips. First we visited the ruins that are nearby called Nuestapata and Vitcos. Apparently the first set of ruins was the escaping point for the Inca Manco. The walk was easy and in a loop shape and normally takes about two hours altogether (it took us five because we really took our time).
The next day we did the start of the trail to Chorequeo. We walked for about 3 hours on the trail, which was along a river through an open green valley.
On the following day, which was Shabbat and Yom Kippur I decided to fast and continue business as usual. That was the wrong decision. We were supposed to walk to the next town called Vilcabamba, which was supposed to take an hour and a half to two hours. We finished it after more then five hours. The walk was moderate and was through a valley going uphill along a river. Unfortunately we started our walk very late, around one pm, with the assumption that it would take us four hours to return. But obviously we had the wrong approach. We got to the village after five and were welcomed by the local mission that is run by a team from Italy. After having a small chat with Carlos who came from Italy for two years as a volunteer, we headed back to Huancacalle. I decided to break my fast with a proper meal in Huancacalle. At this point I was starving. When we started walking back the sun had set and the road did not look attractive at all. After five minutes we decided to return to Vilcabamba and try our luck for accommodation in the mission. We were very welcomed to stay and it was a very pleasant experience. Apparently the Father arrived in the town about 15 years ago and saw the level of poverty in the town which was caused by the death of the local cattle, and decided to come and help the community.
On the following day, which was Shabbat and Yom Kippur I decided to fast and continue business as usual. That was the wrong decision. We were supposed to walk to the next town called Vilcabamba, which was supposed to take an hour and a half to two hours. We finished it after more then five hours. The walk was moderate and was through a valley going uphill along a river. Unfortunately we started our walk very late, around one pm, with the assumption that it would take us four hours to return. But obviously we had the wrong approach. We got to the village after five and were welcomed by the local mission that is run by a team from Italy. After having a small chat with Carlos who came from Italy for two years as a volunteer, we headed back to Huancacalle. I decided to break my fast with a proper meal in Huancacalle. At this point I was starving. When we started walking back the sun had set and the road did not look attractive at all. After five minutes we decided to return to Vilcabamba and try our luck for accommodation in the mission. We were very welcomed to stay and it was a very pleasant experience. Apparently the Father arrived in the town about 15 years ago and saw the level of poverty in the town which was caused by the death of the local cattle, and decided to come and help the community.
Once every two weeks the kids have a special treat, meat for diner, every other day they get vegetarian food. Of course, the day we arrived they were having meat! As I keep kosher I could not break my fast with non kosher food. So we cooked our own pasta with tomatoes, garlic, rosemary and onion. It was the best meal that I ever had after Yom Kipur.
The next day, Sunday morning, we walked back to Huancacalle enjoying the beautiful scenery and the lovely adventure that we had just had. We left Huancacalle on Monday morning to go to Aguas Calientes through Santa Maria and Hydro Electrico. At Hydro Electrico we had to take the train because it is not possible to reach Machu Picchu with any other form of transport. The train ride was quite funny. For some unclear reason the train was being driven in a very bizarre way. It drove forward for a few minutes and then stopped, drove back a few hundred metres and then continued forward again, and so on every ten minutes. A ride that could have taken ten minutes took about an hour and half! On our way back from Aguas Calientes to Ollantayambo I noticed that the train was doing the same thing. But it did not actually go backwards, rather parked on a side track for few minutes until the train travelling in the other direction had passed. So it became obvious that the reason for the long train ride (apart from the fact that it was the worst train that I have ever been in mechanically) is that there is only one train track for the trains travelling in both directions.
We arrived to Aguas Calientes on the 24.09.07 in the afternoon and found a very nice room in the hotel Suma Wasi ($25 US a night). The next morning, we took the private bus up to Machu Picchu. Luckily when we arrived the site was not full and was pretty impresive. During the lunch break it started raining and then even more tourists left the site. So when we came back from our luch break it was even emptier.
The whole experince in Machu Picchu was pretty funny. Because we had lost our trust in local guides, after a few bad experinces that we had (A true dialoge with our guide in Pisac ruins near Cusco: 'What was this room for?' The guide: 'This was... for storage...' and strangely enough from there on every room was for some reason for storage) we decided not to hire a guide. But to wait for our luck by waiting for a good guide accompanying what looks like a high end tour group. And our luck came when we noticed this kind of group approaching with a very knowledgble guide. We got all the info we needed and the tour was fantastic (at last!). Unfortunately we kind of stuck out as we tacked onto the group as we were the only people under 65. Im sure the guide noticed we were there as freeriders despite our efforts to blend in, as the next day we bumped into him at another set of ruins a few hours a way, and he smiled and said hello to us!
On the 25.09, in the morning we took the train from Aguas Calientes to arrive in Ollantayambo. The ride was through rainforests and with friendly staff that did a modelling show of local clothes to the passengers during the ride, complete with catwalk music as they strutted the aisles. On arriving in Ollantayambo we went to the ruins that are above the town. This time their wasn't any high end tour group so after a walk through the site we decided to try our luck again and hire a local guide. He was a local guy from Ollantayambo who was studying Tourism to become a guide. He was pretty good and we got a lot of info from him. In the afternoon we took a taxi from Ollantayambo to Cusco and we were very happy to go back to a familiar place on the eve of Sukot.
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Peru: Lima, Huaraz and Cusco
PERU: LIMA, HUARAZ & CUSCO
LIMA: THE AIRPORT, YOUTH HOSTEL & CITY TOUR
We arrived in Lima straight from the jungle. The international airport in Lima is very chaotic. We had been warned about this before, but it was just ridiculous. First u need 2 stand in a very long queue to pass imigration. I have been in long queues before (India, Thailand) but this one was the longest ever, something like 400-500 people making a snake line through the whole hall. Then when we managed to get through immigration, we found our carousel. We saw that the whole terminal was full with people waiting 4 their luggage. After waiting for our luggage for 15 minutes, suddenly the number of our flight disapeared from the screen over the carousel, the carousel stopped and no bags were coming out. When trying to find out where our bags were, we were referred from one counter to another. On the way between counters we saw the bags lying peacefully next to one of the carousels. When we asked our driver what is the reason for the mess. He said that all the international flights arrive at night...? To me it seemed like all of them arrived at the same hour too.
In Lima we stayed in a bizarre youth hostel Albergue International (recomended by Lonely Planet). For some reason every time the receptionist saw us s/he said: 'Can you pay now?' I would often say 'NO' and they would reply: 'You have to pay now!'
Also in Lima we went on a city tour with a company called www.limavision.com/citytour.html. The tour was well organised but the guide did not know anything more then the basic facts. When we tried asking her more detailed questions she was not able to respond. Most of the tour was: 'This is the American embassy... This is the main square... This is peak hour, there is a lot of traffic...'
HUARAZ
From Lima we took an 8 hours bus ride up north to Huaraz with a company called www.cruzdelsur.com.pe/. Excellent service and great views along the way. We actually played Bingo on the bus. I missed one number in winning a free bus ride!
Unfotunatly Leah got sick while we were in Huaraz. So we didn't do much. Except for a three hour walk in the villages nearby, including the main village, Marian. Altough the walk was relatively short it was extremly impresive. The people in the vilages were so nice, I was just amazed. Happy to talk, smiling, and generous.
From Lima we took an 8 hours bus ride up north to Huaraz with a company called www.cruzdelsur.com.pe/. Excellent service and great views along the way. We actually played Bingo on the bus. I missed one number in winning a free bus ride!
Unfotunatly Leah got sick while we were in Huaraz. So we didn't do much. Except for a three hour walk in the villages nearby, including the main village, Marian. Altough the walk was relatively short it was extremly impresive. The people in the vilages were so nice, I was just amazed. Happy to talk, smiling, and generous.
LLANGANUCO LODGE
We continued further north to http://www.llanganucolodge.com/ some two and half hours from Huaraz. I must say that staying in this lodge was one of the best experiences so far in my trip. The owner Charlie Good came to Peru following his brother (the owner of The Way Inn Lodge) from England to open an adventure lodge (Charlie had to become a member of the local comunity, a process that took him about two years. While building the lodge he slept alone in a tent for four months on the mountain). The place has been running from April 2007 and it offers amazing services and beautiful scenery. It is located right next to the magnificent Cordillera Blanca National park, underneath a snowy mountain region, very close to a beautiful lake and several waterfalls. On top of that, Charlie has managed to hire an excellent Australian chef called Brett who makes excellent pumpkin soup. I think what made this place special for me was the feeling that I got personal care and I had great conversations with the people who were staying in the lodge and running it.
Leah was still recovering when we were in Charlie's place (referred to by the locals as Casa de Carlito). So we took it really easy. And we mainly did some day walks around the lodge, just wondering about, and it was wonderful.
In the last day we have managed to do the Lake 69 trek that is in the Cordillera Blanca National park. This trek was just unbelivable. We walked for about six hours along waterfalls, creeks surounded by a beautiful mountain region topped with glaciers and snow. At the end of the trek we reached the lake. The glacier above the lake was melting into it while it was reflecting light blue colours.
I was very sad to leave Charlie's place. I really felt connected to Charlie and to the lodge. I hope that I will have the chance to visit the place again.
From Charlie’s place we drove stright to the airport (next to Huaraz) to catch a flight back to Lima. We stayed another three days in Lima, while Leah was having tests to find out exactly what she was suffering from. We left Lima on the 7.9.07 on a flight to Cusco with an airline called http://aerocondor.com.pe/. I was less suprised this time when I saw how the airport was operating. It seems like all the internal flights were departing, more or less, at the same time. Again very strange. I could not understand who is the genuis that decided on this system, but it was obviusly, Not Working! We left the airport an hour and a half later then we were scheduled to depart.
CUSCO
In Cusco we are staying in a very nice hotel called http://wiracocha.hotelescusco.com/. Our main activities so far have been taking the city tour... and eating. The food here is really nice. There are two restaurents that we specially like. The first www.mundohemp.com/. They offer a variety of food made in combination with Hemp. And the second is Indian restaurent called www.maikhana.net/, which offers excellent Indian dishes with a rich texture and flavour.
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Friday, August 24, 2007
THE JUNGLE TRIP (Cuyabeno reserve)
The Jungle Trip 10.8.07-14.8.07
After our bad experience with Rainbow Expeditions we decided this time to play it safe and to go with an agency that everyone said is excellent and with whom we ourselves had a good experience. So we chose to go with http://www.rainforestur.com.ec/ for a five day trip (which is actually more like 3, because u spend one day arriving and one day leaving). We paid $200US each and we had a very good experience.
DAY ONE: Arriving
We left Quito with a flight to Lago Agria at 6.30 in the morning with what looked like a very new upper class airline company called http://www.vipec.com/(booked for us by http://www.rainforestur.com.ec/) . Before departing we were provided with a small breakfast (for the half hour flight), the terminal (located in the next to international terminal) is very new and all the staff behave very professionally. On the way from the terminal we saw this beautiful white jet waiting for us. The gap between the seats was so wide that u feel like u r in your own living room. During the first ten minutes we had amazing views of Ecuador. It was a fun experience.
We arrived at 7am. The tour was supposed to depart at 10.00 so we checked into a hotel and slept for two hours. At ten we went to the meeting point, surprise …surprise there was no one there. Apparently the next flight from Quito was delayed and the rest of the group, a local family from Quito, only landed at 12.30 pm. So that meant we would only reach our canoe ride (hopefully) by 04.00pm (we had another 3 hour ride on a minibus to get to the river). Eventually we got to the bridge (the canoe departure point) at around 3.30 pm after leaving the airport at 01.30 pm.
After we had lunch and by the time a canoe became available for us it was already 04.30 pm. I have never been in the jungle (well that wasn't a wild one, it was more a national reserve where, for now, the inhabitants were safe from the oil companies that were sucking the rest of the area dry for its oil) and not on a motorised canoe either. So the all experience was very very new for me. And what do u get when everything is new? some curiosity mixed with a lot of fear.
We got, what I thought, were the best seats (right at the front of the boat), though as the time past I understood that I was wrong. Because of the shape of the boat the part in front of us was going upwards and was blocking our front view. As we went further into the jungle, the sun came down and the density of the trees increased. The kids that were driving the boat were busy talking and often we found ourselves about to crash into the shore or into a tree. When it was fully dark what was an ¨almost crash¨ became more and more clearly mini accidents. The local guide Aurora that escorted us to her daughter´s guest house kept on shouting that the drivers are drunk and kept (luckily) directing the boat away from the shore.
I think what was most scary on this ride was the fact that the last part was in the dark. So on top of the usual stress now you can´t really see what you´re facing. Now and then we found ourselves crossing tree logs that were lying on the surface of the river. So you get this kind of surprise jump with the canoe where the canoe almost turns over and your heart falls to your undies. The ride took about four hours, instead of three, and the last hour everyone pulled their torches out trying to help the driver not to flip the canoe. Every light that we saw on the way on the shore, we hoped was our guest house. When arriving Leah and I where a bit traumatised, but we made it, we got to the jungle!
We arrived at 7am. The tour was supposed to depart at 10.00 so we checked into a hotel and slept for two hours. At ten we went to the meeting point, surprise …surprise there was no one there. Apparently the next flight from Quito was delayed and the rest of the group, a local family from Quito, only landed at 12.30 pm. So that meant we would only reach our canoe ride (hopefully) by 04.00pm (we had another 3 hour ride on a minibus to get to the river). Eventually we got to the bridge (the canoe departure point) at around 3.30 pm after leaving the airport at 01.30 pm.
After we had lunch and by the time a canoe became available for us it was already 04.30 pm. I have never been in the jungle (well that wasn't a wild one, it was more a national reserve where, for now, the inhabitants were safe from the oil companies that were sucking the rest of the area dry for its oil) and not on a motorised canoe either. So the all experience was very very new for me. And what do u get when everything is new? some curiosity mixed with a lot of fear.
We got, what I thought, were the best seats (right at the front of the boat), though as the time past I understood that I was wrong. Because of the shape of the boat the part in front of us was going upwards and was blocking our front view. As we went further into the jungle, the sun came down and the density of the trees increased. The kids that were driving the boat were busy talking and often we found ourselves about to crash into the shore or into a tree. When it was fully dark what was an ¨almost crash¨ became more and more clearly mini accidents. The local guide Aurora that escorted us to her daughter´s guest house kept on shouting that the drivers are drunk and kept (luckily) directing the boat away from the shore.
I think what was most scary on this ride was the fact that the last part was in the dark. So on top of the usual stress now you can´t really see what you´re facing. Now and then we found ourselves crossing tree logs that were lying on the surface of the river. So you get this kind of surprise jump with the canoe where the canoe almost turns over and your heart falls to your undies. The ride took about four hours, instead of three, and the last hour everyone pulled their torches out trying to help the driver not to flip the canoe. Every light that we saw on the way on the shore, we hoped was our guest house. When arriving Leah and I where a bit traumatised, but we made it, we got to the jungle!
DAY TWO: a Short walk, Fishing and a Long Canoe ride
We started our day with a short walk around our lodge. Right after we started a heavy rain escorted us all the way. Aurora (the local guide) was leading, while cutting every little leaf with her machete, and Lenin (hired by the agency) was following with us.
Most of the rest of the day we spent on the canoe waiting for things to happen, and I´m sorry to say that they didn't. The dolphins, monkeys, snakes, crocodiles and all the rest were not at home. Maybe they went on a holiday or maybe they could not be bothered waiting for us with the noise that the canoe was producing from its engine.
The highlight of the day was fishing. While on the canoe we tried our luck in catching piranhas. I held my fishing rode for two seconds and suddenly I feel this strong weight pulling me down. I pulled the stick out quickly and this relatively big fish was on it… shit (in the picture above Lenin holding my fish). That's a great success for someone who went fishing only once in his life (at the age of 12) and didn't catch anything after being cooked the whole day in the sun. So as I pulled the poor fellow into the boat, he managed to get out off the hook and to fall into the canoe, which had water in the bottom. I tried few times to catch him but unfortunately he managed to escape under the seats. At one point he was in my hands, and I was throwing him back to the water, but he was so oily that he managed to escape into the canoe again. I asked our guide, Lenin, to catch and throw him back to the river. I already started feeling bad that I pulled the fish out and I wanted to make sure that he will return home safely. At the same time Lenin was showing everyone the different piranhas that others had caught, and Aurora and her grandson were catching small fishes for the rest of the group´s bait. Because of the atmosphere in the boat around the fishing I repeated my request few times to Lenin. When he finished demonstrating the piranhas he came to our seats and with a stick narrowed my fish´s area. This eventually made him move to the open where he got caught by Lenin.
The Jungle Rules
In the jungle the rules are different. This I learned very quickly. You get only what you need not what you want. Lenin caught my fish and straight away put it … where? in the water? I wish! In Aurora´s hands to kill and make more bait. I saw this and asked him to ask Aurora to put it back to the water cause I don't want to kill any animal that I don't need to (already enough animals are being killed to provide my meals). After two or three times of Lenin asking her and she ignoring him, Aurora finally replied that this is her territory, her water and her fish. And basically because she has what we call ¨native´s rights¨ she feels she can do what ever she wants. I can totally understand this idea but I think that to some extent I have the right over that fish, because I caught it. But leaving that alone, i can´t really understand why while we were walking peacefully in the forest she had to cut every thing that grew an inch from the ground? Maybe she was just a bit bored.
With the jungle rules, during meals I found it very hard to get bread for my soup. We were served some pieces of bread at breakfast and apparently all the bread was gone by the evening although there wasn't any meal served during the day. I thought that the hosts didn't think we needed to have bread with the soup, so we didn't get any. But it could be that I am wrong.
DAY THREE: a Forest Walk, Yucan Bread and Looking for Crocodiles ('again…!' ' Who said that?' )
Most of the rest of the day we spent on the canoe waiting for things to happen, and I´m sorry to say that they didn't. The dolphins, monkeys, snakes, crocodiles and all the rest were not at home. Maybe they went on a holiday or maybe they could not be bothered waiting for us with the noise that the canoe was producing from its engine.
The highlight of the day was fishing. While on the canoe we tried our luck in catching piranhas. I held my fishing rode for two seconds and suddenly I feel this strong weight pulling me down. I pulled the stick out quickly and this relatively big fish was on it… shit (in the picture above Lenin holding my fish). That's a great success for someone who went fishing only once in his life (at the age of 12) and didn't catch anything after being cooked the whole day in the sun. So as I pulled the poor fellow into the boat, he managed to get out off the hook and to fall into the canoe, which had water in the bottom. I tried few times to catch him but unfortunately he managed to escape under the seats. At one point he was in my hands, and I was throwing him back to the water, but he was so oily that he managed to escape into the canoe again. I asked our guide, Lenin, to catch and throw him back to the river. I already started feeling bad that I pulled the fish out and I wanted to make sure that he will return home safely. At the same time Lenin was showing everyone the different piranhas that others had caught, and Aurora and her grandson were catching small fishes for the rest of the group´s bait. Because of the atmosphere in the boat around the fishing I repeated my request few times to Lenin. When he finished demonstrating the piranhas he came to our seats and with a stick narrowed my fish´s area. This eventually made him move to the open where he got caught by Lenin.
The Jungle Rules
In the jungle the rules are different. This I learned very quickly. You get only what you need not what you want. Lenin caught my fish and straight away put it … where? in the water? I wish! In Aurora´s hands to kill and make more bait. I saw this and asked him to ask Aurora to put it back to the water cause I don't want to kill any animal that I don't need to (already enough animals are being killed to provide my meals). After two or three times of Lenin asking her and she ignoring him, Aurora finally replied that this is her territory, her water and her fish. And basically because she has what we call ¨native´s rights¨ she feels she can do what ever she wants. I can totally understand this idea but I think that to some extent I have the right over that fish, because I caught it. But leaving that alone, i can´t really understand why while we were walking peacefully in the forest she had to cut every thing that grew an inch from the ground? Maybe she was just a bit bored.
With the jungle rules, during meals I found it very hard to get bread for my soup. We were served some pieces of bread at breakfast and apparently all the bread was gone by the evening although there wasn't any meal served during the day. I thought that the hosts didn't think we needed to have bread with the soup, so we didn't get any. But it could be that I am wrong.
DAY THREE: a Forest Walk, Yucan Bread and Looking for Crocodiles ('again…!' ' Who said that?' )
The first thing that I noticed when I woke up was my back. It was so painful, I have never experienced such a sharp pain. I had no idea what it was from. I haven't had back pain for ages; especially after practising Pilates, it's all gone. But now in the jungle it came back in a very painful way. So I was thinking, what did I do that might have caused this pain? And after concentrating really hard, the obvious conclusion came: THE CANOE. Sitting on a canoe for a whole day with short distance between seats, low benches and back support at a very funny angle is the right recipe for back pain. And the cure came only after I remembered what has helped me in the last few years – Pilates, yes ! how good is it when u have a physical problem and u can solve it yourself ?
Except the pain in the back on the third day, we went on a three hour walk in the forest, which was pretty nice. In the afternoon we went to Aurora's house and watched her cook a local bread called Yucan. The bread was made in a traditional fashion and we helped pulling the Yucan route from the ground. On the way back from Aurora's place we stopped for half an hour for Luis (Aurora's son in law) to make a phone call from his mobile. That was a unique experience. In the area that we were there is one specific point where locals found out that you can make phone calls. I guess while looking for reception they climbed up a few trees and found this one. But now they have upgraded to a small tower next to the tree that u can phone from. After that for some reason that I can't really understand we were again looking for crocodiles. I think Lenin has a small obsession with them. Because the day before while on the way back to the lodge we were looking for the same guys. And I mean it's not that u can really see them. You are actually looking for red eyes in the dark. If u saw that it meant that u saw a small crocodile.
Except the pain in the back on the third day, we went on a three hour walk in the forest, which was pretty nice. In the afternoon we went to Aurora's house and watched her cook a local bread called Yucan. The bread was made in a traditional fashion and we helped pulling the Yucan route from the ground. On the way back from Aurora's place we stopped for half an hour for Luis (Aurora's son in law) to make a phone call from his mobile. That was a unique experience. In the area that we were there is one specific point where locals found out that you can make phone calls. I guess while looking for reception they climbed up a few trees and found this one. But now they have upgraded to a small tower next to the tree that u can phone from. After that for some reason that I can't really understand we were again looking for crocodiles. I think Lenin has a small obsession with them. Because the day before while on the way back to the lodge we were looking for the same guys. And I mean it's not that u can really see them. You are actually looking for red eyes in the dark. If u saw that it meant that u saw a small crocodile.
DAY FOUR: Canoe Ride, Soccer with Locals and the Tarantula
The best day. Our group on this day was much smaller, because some of the members had to finish the day before. So we were only 4 instead of 9 which was a big difference. We didn't need to use the canoe with an engigne, and had a lovely sunny day and time to explore whatever we asked for. We started the day by a three hour canoe ride along the river, looking for birds, monkies and all their friends. And for some reason they all decided to expose themselves. As well as all the animals that we saw it was a great ride because we had to paddle ourselves in a small canoe where every movement counts. So we all had to be sync'ed with our movements to prevent flipping and to do some exercise at the same time. After lunch we went to visit the local school that is surrounded by local houses. Some local boys saw us and asked the guide if we want to play soccer with them, and we did. Because I was wearing rubber boots it was extremely hard, but it was a lot of fun. What was more amazing was the fact that the kids kept laughing throughout the whole game. Never mind losing or winning their were happy to make jokes about us or themselves, it was unbelievable. This phenomenon I have noticed with Aurora as well, when she was with her family most of time you would hear her laughing.
At night time we went for a walk, just Leah and I, with Lenin. The other couple was too tired. I must say doing a walk at night time in a forest full with different animals where most of them are not specially friendly is not my favourite thing but it was still very interesting. We managed to see mainly different kind of insects and one Tarantula. And when Lenin noticed that we were excited about the spider he said that he wiil show us another one when we get to our lodge. And yes he did. It was the biggest spider that I ever saw in my life. Waiting very calmly under a hole in a trunk right next to the toilet!!! I was very happy that we were leaving the next day otherwise it would have been very difficult to know that our friends are everywhere and we can't really see them unless we look very carefully.
At night time we went for a walk, just Leah and I, with Lenin. The other couple was too tired. I must say doing a walk at night time in a forest full with different animals where most of them are not specially friendly is not my favourite thing but it was still very interesting. We managed to see mainly different kind of insects and one Tarantula. And when Lenin noticed that we were excited about the spider he said that he wiil show us another one when we get to our lodge. And yes he did. It was the biggest spider that I ever saw in my life. Waiting very calmly under a hole in a trunk right next to the toilet!!! I was very happy that we were leaving the next day otherwise it would have been very difficult to know that our friends are everywhere and we can't really see them unless we look very carefully.
DAY FIVE
Going back ¨home¨ to civilisation was a great relief. Although I felt like life in the jungle is very attractive. Living with nature seems to me the best way of living. A place where u are actually part of your surroundings and the surroundings are part of u, where respecting the environment is a way a living. U don't just recycle but u are part of the soil and the trees and the water. U influence it and it0 influences u.
Chugchilan Ecuador: Laguna Quilatoa & the Cloud Forest
COTOPAXI
From Banos we continued to the cityLatacunga where we went on a guided trip to Cotopaxi with a company called Tovar. We made it to the top! Well almost… we barely managed to finish our day trip to see baby Cotopaxi and other views. The weather was definitely against us. Up to a point that I could not breathe because the wind was so strong. And the fact that the summit was playing hide and seek the all way behind the clouds did not make it easier. But I'm happy we went because it was a good preparation for Chuchilan´s altitude.
From Banos we continued to the cityLatacunga where we went on a guided trip to Cotopaxi with a company called Tovar. We made it to the top! Well almost… we barely managed to finish our day trip to see baby Cotopaxi and other views. The weather was definitely against us. Up to a point that I could not breathe because the wind was so strong. And the fact that the summit was playing hide and seek the all way behind the clouds did not make it easier. But I'm happy we went because it was a good preparation for Chuchilan´s altitude.
CHUCHILAN
Upon arrival to Quilatoa we hired a guide to take us on a walk to Chuchilan. The walk was very nice specially at the start when we walked along the Quilatoa lake. The walk gos along the half of the lake and then decends into a valley and then climbs up to Chuchilan. The guide that we hired, the owner of a restaurant in Quilatoa, was very patient through the all walk and we paid him 20 dollars. Later we found out that if we had hired a guide from Chuchilan it would have cost $10. the difference in prices is because ours charged us for his trip back to Quilatoa.
IN Chuchilan we decided to go to a Hostal called Mama Hilda: http://www.hostalmamahilda.org/index.htm for some reason I felt bad about this place. Maybe because http://www.lonelyplanet.com/recommendations were starting to be more and more unreliable or just because when we booked the women on the other line was quite surprised that we were calling to book and then when we called to change our booking she didn't have any booking in our name…what a great start. So we got there after a five hour walk from Quilatoa and surprisingly again they did not have our booking, they had to call their office in Quito to get it. So yes we had a room (but not for long). The receptionist-owner showed us our room and we asked whether it is possible to have one with a view. To look for one she walked with us while knocking on different random doors to see if they are occupied or not. After finishing out little tour of the lodge we said we need five minutes to think if we want the original room or not. While discussing the different options we see the same women showing the original room to some one else. We approached her and said we want the room. Her reply was ¨Sorry… sorry…¨ but it was a very annoying sound because she kept on dragging out each word for a few seconds until u feel like your ears are dropping off. She said something like it wasn't her fault, another lady showed them the room and she did not know but it was booked... Anyway she was willing to give us another room with a hot shower. It was a room for four people but she said we could have it as a private room. Leah asked her for her GUARANTEE that no one else would be put into the room with us, and she promised not to. We had a quick look and this time we said YES! straight away. After I had a very cold shower where I felt like someone is pissing on me cold pee, afterwards I wore all my clothes and went into bed to try and recover my body's temperature. But guess what happened after 10 minutes? We hear heavy knocks on the door. And I was like ´what´s that´? Leah went and opened and it was our good friend the receptionist saying her annoying sorry´s again and repeating the same song again: the room is booked !!! and sorry...sorry ... so we have to leave to a next by hostel and tomorrow we will have our room back.
Upon arrival to Quilatoa we hired a guide to take us on a walk to Chuchilan. The walk was very nice specially at the start when we walked along the Quilatoa lake. The walk gos along the half of the lake and then decends into a valley and then climbs up to Chuchilan. The guide that we hired, the owner of a restaurant in Quilatoa, was very patient through the all walk and we paid him 20 dollars. Later we found out that if we had hired a guide from Chuchilan it would have cost $10. the difference in prices is because ours charged us for his trip back to Quilatoa.
IN Chuchilan we decided to go to a Hostal called Mama Hilda: http://www.hostalmamahilda.org/index.htm for some reason I felt bad about this place. Maybe because http://www.lonelyplanet.com/recommendations were starting to be more and more unreliable or just because when we booked the women on the other line was quite surprised that we were calling to book and then when we called to change our booking she didn't have any booking in our name…what a great start. So we got there after a five hour walk from Quilatoa and surprisingly again they did not have our booking, they had to call their office in Quito to get it. So yes we had a room (but not for long). The receptionist-owner showed us our room and we asked whether it is possible to have one with a view. To look for one she walked with us while knocking on different random doors to see if they are occupied or not. After finishing out little tour of the lodge we said we need five minutes to think if we want the original room or not. While discussing the different options we see the same women showing the original room to some one else. We approached her and said we want the room. Her reply was ¨Sorry… sorry…¨ but it was a very annoying sound because she kept on dragging out each word for a few seconds until u feel like your ears are dropping off. She said something like it wasn't her fault, another lady showed them the room and she did not know but it was booked... Anyway she was willing to give us another room with a hot shower. It was a room for four people but she said we could have it as a private room. Leah asked her for her GUARANTEE that no one else would be put into the room with us, and she promised not to. We had a quick look and this time we said YES! straight away. After I had a very cold shower where I felt like someone is pissing on me cold pee, afterwards I wore all my clothes and went into bed to try and recover my body's temperature. But guess what happened after 10 minutes? We hear heavy knocks on the door. And I was like ´what´s that´? Leah went and opened and it was our good friend the receptionist saying her annoying sorry´s again and repeating the same song again: the room is booked !!! and sorry...sorry ... so we have to leave to a next by hostel and tomorrow we will have our room back.
AS WE say in Hebrew what ¨A Chutspa¨ this women has - I just could not believe it. The next day we moved to a much nicer, prettier place called http://www.blacksheepinn.com/ . The owners Andy and Michelle arrived to Chuchilan about 15 years ago, fell for the place and decided to move from the US to build an ecological lodge. The place is very expensive, 25 dollars per person for a dorm bed but it provides excellent service (on a trust basis) and great vegetarian food. It has a spa, internet access, great cookies and its main feature is toilets with big windows overlooking the valley. After their arrival the whole of Chuchilan started to get involved in tourism (previously there had been none).
FOR ME the whole experience was still a bit hard. Although I had good experiences sleeping in India in dormitories, at this one people had to wake in the middle of the night because the public buses were leaving at that time and while packing their stuff and leaving they would often make unavoidable noise. The worst was with this European couple who left at four am while talking to each other like it was mid day. The other thing that was hard for me was the toilet, although I loved the idea of toilets with a view (and in one of them there is even a book about the history of toilets) the whole ecological business was a bit difficult. The toilets were what u call dry ones so u do ur thing into a toilet that u cant see what's happening in it and then u throw all kind of bits of leaves and other staff when u finish.
THE OTHER walk that we did in Chuchilan is called the Cloud Forest walk. In the hostel they have this amazing service where they ask everyone during dinner what are the activities they want to do the next day, and then organise what u need for the next day. That allows you to join a group and overall pay less. Our Cloud forest walk was organised like that and we asked for a truck to take us to the forest and a guide. Lets say it was a very nice experience. It wasn't the best walk that I ever did and the guide (16 years old) knew some stuff about the different plants and it was well organised but that's it.
BUT I THINK the best thing that happen to us there was the people. So many nice people were staying there which made the dinners, that are served to all the guests together, a great experience. When checking out there were two things I did not quite understand. First the hostel gives discounts to students with international student cards so when we checked out we asked for a discount but I didn't have my actual student card with me as I had left it in Latacunga with most of our luggage. The owner said that they have to see the card and they can't give a discount. I thought it is very weird that a place that is run on the idea of trust does not trust its customers. The other thing was that after paying we have discovered that we were not credited with our initial deposit of $20US. We got the money back, but to our surprise another couple that left with us said that they had the same problem with a bigger amount 150US that they gave as a deposit and was not included in the final bill (more info and pics about the Quilota loop u can find at http://www.pbase.com/nikonesque/quilotoa_loop, pictures of the Quilota lake at http://www.ecuador-images.net/lake.quilotoa.htm ).
FOR ME the whole experience was still a bit hard. Although I had good experiences sleeping in India in dormitories, at this one people had to wake in the middle of the night because the public buses were leaving at that time and while packing their stuff and leaving they would often make unavoidable noise. The worst was with this European couple who left at four am while talking to each other like it was mid day. The other thing that was hard for me was the toilet, although I loved the idea of toilets with a view (and in one of them there is even a book about the history of toilets) the whole ecological business was a bit difficult. The toilets were what u call dry ones so u do ur thing into a toilet that u cant see what's happening in it and then u throw all kind of bits of leaves and other staff when u finish.
THE OTHER walk that we did in Chuchilan is called the Cloud Forest walk. In the hostel they have this amazing service where they ask everyone during dinner what are the activities they want to do the next day, and then organise what u need for the next day. That allows you to join a group and overall pay less. Our Cloud forest walk was organised like that and we asked for a truck to take us to the forest and a guide. Lets say it was a very nice experience. It wasn't the best walk that I ever did and the guide (16 years old) knew some stuff about the different plants and it was well organised but that's it.
BUT I THINK the best thing that happen to us there was the people. So many nice people were staying there which made the dinners, that are served to all the guests together, a great experience. When checking out there were two things I did not quite understand. First the hostel gives discounts to students with international student cards so when we checked out we asked for a discount but I didn't have my actual student card with me as I had left it in Latacunga with most of our luggage. The owner said that they have to see the card and they can't give a discount. I thought it is very weird that a place that is run on the idea of trust does not trust its customers. The other thing was that after paying we have discovered that we were not credited with our initial deposit of $20US. We got the money back, but to our surprise another couple that left with us said that they had the same problem with a bigger amount 150US that they gave as a deposit and was not included in the final bill (more info and pics about the Quilota loop u can find at http://www.pbase.com/nikonesque/quilotoa_loop, pictures of the Quilota lake at http://www.ecuador-images.net/lake.quilotoa.htm ).
THE PICTURES: first line Laguna Quilatoa, the walk from Quilatoa to Chuchilan. Second line The blacksheepinn and a flower in the cloud forest.
Banos Ecuador Travel Guide by Eran Sofer
After spending two weeks in Banos I think I am able to recommend some activities to do and places to see. Here is a short list that I think will be helpful to the newcomer.
Accommodation
In the town we stayed in a place called Plantas Y Blanco. The owner of the hostel Carlos is a reflection of the staff and the excellent service that u will b able to find there. In addition to clean rooms, hot showers, quick laundry service and free internet access, u can get a great breakfast on a terrace that has views of the whole town and is located only 7 minutes walk from the hot springs.
As a compensation for not being able to fit Tahiti into out trip because of flight companies regulations, we went to a spa resort called http://www.lunaruntun.com/ for four days. There we had amazing views of Banos and the whole valley from above while sitting in hot mineral baths.
Food
Café Hood - excellent food, you have to try the Arabic lamb, Leah says it was amazing. I loved the Plato Hindu.
Casa Hood - very nice atmosphere, excellent apple pie and a lot of oil in the rest.
Rafting – that is one of the highlights of my trip so far. We had an excellent experience with www.rainforestur.com.ec, the guide Tito was very professional and was able to lead the raft like a king. Everything was organised smoothly including an excellent lunch.
Cycling – we hired bicycles for a day for 5 dollars. We had a great day trip along the route from Banos to Puyo. The ride starts at Banos along the main road and then splits off to a small side road along water falls inside a valley with some very nice views (one warning to travellers there is one tunnel that u need to go through in one part of the route which is shared with general traffic, unfortunately this tunnel is not lit up, so it is recommended to bring a torch with u). At one point u can go on a cable car that crosses the valley. The actual experience is pretty scary and very pretty. The car is an open basket which is run by engine at one end. Before departing u can actually see the open engine in front of u while the static driver is manuvering the basket from one side to another! We finished our trip at a place called Rio Verde. We had a small walk down hill where we have found unbelievable scenery. A big waterfall drops some 30 meters between two green foresty hills, on both sides of the hill next to the waterfall are two restaurants. On arrival we did not know a thing about any of them, but the first one tried to charge us for looking at the water fall. Which sounded really stupid, because we could see that if we continue to walk for another 20 meters we would have an excellent view from the bridge. So we did that and from there we saw the other restaurant that had an amazing setting. Offering great food, wonderful waterfall view and the best part it is owned by an Israeli family! It is called El Otro Lado (The Other Side). Currently the family is not there, but they bought the land from a local about 12 years ago and they lived there for 8 years and now they are living in Israel. Except the restaurant they offer accommodation in the same area (For more info on the bicycle route look in http://www.thebestofecuador.com/smiguel.htm and http://www.vivatravelguides.com/south-america/ecuador/andean-highlands/central-highlands/banos/around-banos-rio-verde/ )
Jungle trip
We had a very bad experience with an agency called Rainbow in Banos. This agency is recommended by http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ because the owner, a native guy called Shakay, is suppose to take u to his tribe´s reserve close to Macas while giving half of the money u pay for the trip to the community, and u have a good chance to live with them and get to know their culture better.
Unfortunately we were very disappointed with Rainbow, Shakay and http://www.lonelyplanet.com/´s guidance. We agreed on a trip for 4 days trip with an English speaking guide and among other things a taxi from Banos to Puyo at 1am. The taxi was never booked by Shakay because ¨the costs were too high¨. Shakay claimed that the ride would cost $50 us (later we checked the price with different taxi drivers and they all said its only $25 US). So instead of a taxi we had to wait in the freezing cold for a public bus. After waiting for one and half hours we said to Shakay that if the bus does not arrive in half an hour we are going back to our Hostal. At three Shakay disappeared to avoid the dead line and left us by ourselves with the entire luggage. After another 15 minutes the bus arrived and Shakay came back to load the luggage. On arrival to Puyo, after an hour and half on the bus, we were told by Shakay that the English speaking guide´s wife was bitten by a snake and could not come. Instead there was another guide that speaks only Spanish. Then and there we felt we could not trust him any more. The story with the taxi, the disappearance while waiting for the bus and the snake story were a bit too much. We demanded to return to Bnaos and a full refund. We did return but getting back the money was a very long experience which took us five days. We had help from www.rainforestur.com.ec , the owner Santiago gave us excellent advice and Carlos from Plantas Y Blanco went with us to launch a complain in the Tourist Police (which is an amazing thing that they have in all Ecuador, if u have any problem with any tourist agency the tourist police are the people to talk with).
Accommodation
In the town we stayed in a place called Plantas Y Blanco. The owner of the hostel Carlos is a reflection of the staff and the excellent service that u will b able to find there. In addition to clean rooms, hot showers, quick laundry service and free internet access, u can get a great breakfast on a terrace that has views of the whole town and is located only 7 minutes walk from the hot springs.
As a compensation for not being able to fit Tahiti into out trip because of flight companies regulations, we went to a spa resort called http://www.lunaruntun.com/ for four days. There we had amazing views of Banos and the whole valley from above while sitting in hot mineral baths.
Food
Café Hood - excellent food, you have to try the Arabic lamb, Leah says it was amazing. I loved the Plato Hindu.
Casa Hood - very nice atmosphere, excellent apple pie and a lot of oil in the rest.
Rafting – that is one of the highlights of my trip so far. We had an excellent experience with www.rainforestur.com.ec, the guide Tito was very professional and was able to lead the raft like a king. Everything was organised smoothly including an excellent lunch.
Cycling – we hired bicycles for a day for 5 dollars. We had a great day trip along the route from Banos to Puyo. The ride starts at Banos along the main road and then splits off to a small side road along water falls inside a valley with some very nice views (one warning to travellers there is one tunnel that u need to go through in one part of the route which is shared with general traffic, unfortunately this tunnel is not lit up, so it is recommended to bring a torch with u). At one point u can go on a cable car that crosses the valley. The actual experience is pretty scary and very pretty. The car is an open basket which is run by engine at one end. Before departing u can actually see the open engine in front of u while the static driver is manuvering the basket from one side to another! We finished our trip at a place called Rio Verde. We had a small walk down hill where we have found unbelievable scenery. A big waterfall drops some 30 meters between two green foresty hills, on both sides of the hill next to the waterfall are two restaurants. On arrival we did not know a thing about any of them, but the first one tried to charge us for looking at the water fall. Which sounded really stupid, because we could see that if we continue to walk for another 20 meters we would have an excellent view from the bridge. So we did that and from there we saw the other restaurant that had an amazing setting. Offering great food, wonderful waterfall view and the best part it is owned by an Israeli family! It is called El Otro Lado (The Other Side). Currently the family is not there, but they bought the land from a local about 12 years ago and they lived there for 8 years and now they are living in Israel. Except the restaurant they offer accommodation in the same area (For more info on the bicycle route look in http://www.thebestofecuador.com/smiguel.htm and http://www.vivatravelguides.com/south-america/ecuador/andean-highlands/central-highlands/banos/around-banos-rio-verde/ )
Jungle trip
We had a very bad experience with an agency called Rainbow in Banos. This agency is recommended by http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ because the owner, a native guy called Shakay, is suppose to take u to his tribe´s reserve close to Macas while giving half of the money u pay for the trip to the community, and u have a good chance to live with them and get to know their culture better.
Unfortunately we were very disappointed with Rainbow, Shakay and http://www.lonelyplanet.com/´s guidance. We agreed on a trip for 4 days trip with an English speaking guide and among other things a taxi from Banos to Puyo at 1am. The taxi was never booked by Shakay because ¨the costs were too high¨. Shakay claimed that the ride would cost $50 us (later we checked the price with different taxi drivers and they all said its only $25 US). So instead of a taxi we had to wait in the freezing cold for a public bus. After waiting for one and half hours we said to Shakay that if the bus does not arrive in half an hour we are going back to our Hostal. At three Shakay disappeared to avoid the dead line and left us by ourselves with the entire luggage. After another 15 minutes the bus arrived and Shakay came back to load the luggage. On arrival to Puyo, after an hour and half on the bus, we were told by Shakay that the English speaking guide´s wife was bitten by a snake and could not come. Instead there was another guide that speaks only Spanish. Then and there we felt we could not trust him any more. The story with the taxi, the disappearance while waiting for the bus and the snake story were a bit too much. We demanded to return to Bnaos and a full refund. We did return but getting back the money was a very long experience which took us five days. We had help from www.rainforestur.com.ec , the owner Santiago gave us excellent advice and Carlos from Plantas Y Blanco went with us to launch a complain in the Tourist Police (which is an amazing thing that they have in all Ecuador, if u have any problem with any tourist agency the tourist police are the people to talk with).
Thursday, July 26, 2007
Banos; Spanish, Garlic, Fortune tellers and Hot springs
We have been in Banos for more then a week now. Actually last night (24.07) we celebrated our one week anniversary in Banos, as u do when u r travelling. I had a few thoughts that I wanted to share with u while trying to reflect as hard as I could. But I´ve got only a few left as happens when trying hard (forcing) something, it usually wont work. I always use the soap metaphor to describe this situation: while holding a wet soap in u´r hand, if u try to hold it tight the soap will slip, but if u just let it rest on it, it will not move anywhere. I believe it´s the same for most things in life; if you try to meditate to relax very hard, it will never work, probably the opposite, u will feel more frustrated. U can try it with any experience that u have in life (warning: not for kids under the age of 3).So yes I had a few thoughts and experiences that I wanted to share with you. One of them is that you can´t reflect when u want to. The others were about our activities and the book that I¨m currently reading.
We went twice since being here to the
On Saturday (21.07) we did a five hour trek around Banos. The trek was pretty hard because the way up was very steep but we managed to break it really well in a beautiful resort that was on our way. In their restaurant they served a really nice chocolate crepe that we could not resist. Hopefully in the near future we will go there for a relaxation day.
On Monday (23.07) we hired a quad for four hours. The experience was not as good as I expected. After riding for a few minutes on the asphalt I felt like it´s not the experience that I was looking for. The main mistake that we made was to hire one quad for both of us. That made manoeuvring the quad very hard, especially moving the wheel. Riding on the asphalt felt like you are riding on a blender. Leah with great instincts managed to get us off the main road onto a beautiful dirt road that led us to a valley with stunning views and excellent look outs.
On the morning of the same day we started learning Spanish in a school called Banos Spanish Centre. I have a private teacher called Rina and the cost for one hour is $5 which I think is a good deal. The first thing that came into my mind while studying was ¨why?¨ or ¨porque?¨ Why am I doing this to myself? The first thing I do after studying intensively for the last 2.5 years, which included one year of English study, on my holiday is to go and learn a new language. I guess the explanation for that is that in this stage of my trip I am learning. I am having the experience in the way that is most familiar to me. Looking at other travellers I can´t see many that sit all day and read books and study Spanish. Most of them are in the deep jungle chasing anacondas and other crazy things. I guess my time to do those activities will come.
Talking about books I have to tell u about the book that I´m reading now. It´s called “A fortune teller told me” and it was written by Tiziano Terzani. The author was told by a fortune teller that he would die during 1993 if he flew on a plane. He decided not to fly and describes his travels around the world as a journalist for one year overland and sea. While travelling he meets the local fortune teller of every place he visits and asks them to read his fortune.
So far, from this book I´ve got two main messages. First, never go to a fortune teller. Second, eat a lot of garlic. According to Terzani in many cases that the fortune tellers were wrong, their advice was devastating to the recipient, causing them a lot of grief, and personal damage. I personally believe that going to a fortune teller is a mistake. While knowing the future (if it´s true) you miss the point of living. Life is all about the present. If you live according to the fortune teller´s advice you are constantly chasing your tail. I think that the challenges that come in life ARE life. And about the garlic, as my dad says, eat a lot of garlic and you will prosper. This is the same idea all the fortune tellers told Terzani. So because my dad is smart and his advice correlates with the fortune tellers´, I will try and eat as much garlic as I can.
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Why Banos?
We made it to our trip, yes!
Finally we arrived in a touristy town and yes I am not afraid to say it but I love these kind of towns. U have it all in one place: good restaurants, treks, hot springs, mountain bikes, motorcycles, traktorinim and more.
Leave me out of the idea of going to places that are off the beaten track - that might come later. Now I need convenience, I want to meet other travellers, sleep in, and want things to be easy. Later, maybe, hopefully, we will challenge ourselves with remote villages (as long as we can come back at night for a good sleep, I’m only joking) meet locals and all the rest.
It might sound a bit selfish, but I think that first we need to relax and adjust then explore.
Anyhow, we arrived yesterday (17.07.07 Tuesday) to a place called Banos (pronounced Banyos), south of Quito. It’s a beautiful town surrounded by green volcanic mountains (some are still active)… very nice. We are staying at Planta y Blanco, a very nice hostel, that seems to have all the necessary services for travellers in one place: free internet, tv, steam baths, nice cafeteria on a roof terrace and heaps of travellers, ¨be-kistoor¨ (= to make the story short in hebrew) the place to be.
Today we went for a short walk around the town and while exploring the neighbourhood we went to a Spanish school (we might start study Spanish on Monday) and to the nearby river (from which we had beautiful view of the town and the whole area). I had my fist massage today ! in the afternoon which was good, hopefully tomorrow we will go to the hot springs. Adios amigos, Eran Sofer
Monday, July 16, 2007
It is Otavalo
Quito was too old.
We stayed in the old part of Quito (hotel san Francisco de Quito) wednesday,11.07, till Friday, 13.07.07. Basically the city has two main attractions, the first is the churches the second is armed guards. The city is the capital of Ecuador and it is full with armed guards who are everywhere, seriously, every shop and I mean every shop has a guard and depending on what’s in the shop that’s how heavy the guard is equipped. On top of the guards there is something like 6 different government forces, army, police etc. in one way u feel safe on the other way u think why do they need to have so many guards, is it so bad, is it worse than Jerusalem, cant b. the explanation that we got from our host in Otavalo is that the government wants to keep the criminals off the streets by giving them jobs as security people.
The other link to Jerusalem and to my neighborhood in Tel Aviv (synagogues on every corner) is the high concentration of churches, I mean very high! Every second building is a church, at some point u start thinking that it all really happened, I mean after seeing so many pictures of Jesus being crucified and then being taken off the cross…u think wow… that must b true (that’s reminds of this hilarious shuttle bus driver that came to pick us from the hotel in Auckland, every second sentence he said "True?" he just killed me) u just surrounded by that reality and u start believing in it.
On Friday morning I was pretty much exhausted and the jet leg plus the high altitude, 1850 m, made me sick.
After almost three days in Quito we took a taxi on Friday noon to Otavalo, where we are now. We did the trip together with Leah’s parents and got ourselves excellent accommodation at Ali Shunga. We got a very nice flat for all of us which we shared until today in the after noon.
Otavalo is about two hours from Quito and its know for its extensive Saturday market. As good shoppers we woke up early, 06.15 am, and started our tour at the animal market, then moved to the craft part, fruit and vegetable and finished in the craft. I telling u its hard to shop for ten hours in a row, u get tired from bargaining the whole day. I enjoy bargaining but this one was not easy. I think the most interesting part was the animal market where farmers bring their animals to trade for other animals and money. The market itself is in a mud field with different sections, pigs, cows, sheep etc. The most problematic animals were the pigs, they did not want to move, I mean they were not happy being sold. So some of them did all they could to stay put, including trying to escape, screaming and leaning forward while bending their feet.
Any way now one can understand why Jews don’t eat ham, the trade is too hard.
On Sunday, 16.07.07, we went on a lovely trek, called Cuicocha laguna. We were only suppose to do some of it because of my and Felicity’s altitude issues but eventually we did all of it in a record time of five hours. The recommended time was five including another hour walk along the road which we managed to skip by our great taxi driver Wilson and Sidney’s talent in catching a lift all the way to the meeting point with the taxi. The trek itself goes around the laguna which is centered by two small islands in the middle. It was definately worth the effort, beautiful scenery.
Any way, have to go to bed, update soon Eran Sofer
We stayed in the old part of Quito (hotel san Francisco de Quito) wednesday,11.07, till Friday, 13.07.07. Basically the city has two main attractions, the first is the churches the second is armed guards. The city is the capital of Ecuador and it is full with armed guards who are everywhere, seriously, every shop and I mean every shop has a guard and depending on what’s in the shop that’s how heavy the guard is equipped. On top of the guards there is something like 6 different government forces, army, police etc. in one way u feel safe on the other way u think why do they need to have so many guards, is it so bad, is it worse than Jerusalem, cant b. the explanation that we got from our host in Otavalo is that the government wants to keep the criminals off the streets by giving them jobs as security people.
The other link to Jerusalem and to my neighborhood in Tel Aviv (synagogues on every corner) is the high concentration of churches, I mean very high! Every second building is a church, at some point u start thinking that it all really happened, I mean after seeing so many pictures of Jesus being crucified and then being taken off the cross…u think wow… that must b true (that’s reminds of this hilarious shuttle bus driver that came to pick us from the hotel in Auckland, every second sentence he said "True?" he just killed me) u just surrounded by that reality and u start believing in it.
On Friday morning I was pretty much exhausted and the jet leg plus the high altitude, 1850 m, made me sick.
After almost three days in Quito we took a taxi on Friday noon to Otavalo, where we are now. We did the trip together with Leah’s parents and got ourselves excellent accommodation at Ali Shunga. We got a very nice flat for all of us which we shared until today in the after noon.
Otavalo is about two hours from Quito and its know for its extensive Saturday market. As good shoppers we woke up early, 06.15 am, and started our tour at the animal market, then moved to the craft part, fruit and vegetable and finished in the craft. I telling u its hard to shop for ten hours in a row, u get tired from bargaining the whole day. I enjoy bargaining but this one was not easy. I think the most interesting part was the animal market where farmers bring their animals to trade for other animals and money. The market itself is in a mud field with different sections, pigs, cows, sheep etc. The most problematic animals were the pigs, they did not want to move, I mean they were not happy being sold. So some of them did all they could to stay put, including trying to escape, screaming and leaning forward while bending their feet.
Any way now one can understand why Jews don’t eat ham, the trade is too hard.
On Sunday, 16.07.07, we went on a lovely trek, called Cuicocha laguna. We were only suppose to do some of it because of my and Felicity’s altitude issues but eventually we did all of it in a record time of five hours. The recommended time was five including another hour walk along the road which we managed to skip by our great taxi driver Wilson and Sidney’s talent in catching a lift all the way to the meeting point with the taxi. The trek itself goes around the laguna which is centered by two small islands in the middle. It was definately worth the effort, beautiful scenery.
Any way, have to go to bed, update soon Eran Sofer
The old city Quito
Jul 12, 2007
so yes we made it to quito, after a very long week we finally arrived
i must say that i feel exhausted but i am sure that after a few hours of sleep my body will go back to normal.
we had three weeks to pack our flat move out and pack our luggage to the trip. unfortunately we only started packing a day before the "movers" (alon hatotach and gary) were suppose to come. we were very busy socialising and saying goodbye to our friends in melbourne and we did not specially want to pack ourselves and move out. so we left most of the packing till the last minute.
this terrible behaviour did not leave us much room for mistakes, which led us to a situation where we were packing and unpacking for few days after midnight and in the last few days we were awake until 3.30 every night and the night before the flight we did not have any sleep.
i alreay told u about the airport experince, boarding the plane at 2.30 pm instead of 11.00 am, waiting for a route approval on the plane for two hours only to fly through sydney and arrive in auckland at 11 pm.
and yes we did manage to get on the connecting flight between Auckland and Santiago, which we almost missed.
we are now in quito and i am writing to u from the tourist office which provides a free internet service.. only for that it was worth coming.
eran sofer
so yes we made it to quito, after a very long week we finally arrived
i must say that i feel exhausted but i am sure that after a few hours of sleep my body will go back to normal.
we had three weeks to pack our flat move out and pack our luggage to the trip. unfortunately we only started packing a day before the "movers" (alon hatotach and gary) were suppose to come. we were very busy socialising and saying goodbye to our friends in melbourne and we did not specially want to pack ourselves and move out. so we left most of the packing till the last minute.
this terrible behaviour did not leave us much room for mistakes, which led us to a situation where we were packing and unpacking for few days after midnight and in the last few days we were awake until 3.30 every night and the night before the flight we did not have any sleep.
i alreay told u about the airport experince, boarding the plane at 2.30 pm instead of 11.00 am, waiting for a route approval on the plane for two hours only to fly through sydney and arrive in auckland at 11 pm.
and yes we did manage to get on the connecting flight between Auckland and Santiago, which we almost missed.
we are now in quito and i am writing to u from the tourist office which provides a free internet service.. only for that it was worth coming.
eran sofer
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
In New Zealand
hallo all,
we are currently in auckland in new zealand
waiting to c whether we will get seats on the flight to santiago
unfortunately our flight from melbourne was delayed from 11 am to 04 pm bwcause of the weather in melbourne, and then we were on the flight we were told that we are going to fly first to sydney because the crew had to be replaced.
so eventually instead of arriving to NZ at 02 pm and catching the next plane at 05.30 pm we got to auckland at 11 pm !
but qantas were really nice and they organised a 4 star hotel for us, so we had a good sleep from 03 am til 11.30 am went for a swim and sauna and now waiting to get a sit on the plane
speak soon, eran
we are currently in auckland in new zealand
waiting to c whether we will get seats on the flight to santiago
unfortunately our flight from melbourne was delayed from 11 am to 04 pm bwcause of the weather in melbourne, and then we were on the flight we were told that we are going to fly first to sydney because the crew had to be replaced.
so eventually instead of arriving to NZ at 02 pm and catching the next plane at 05.30 pm we got to auckland at 11 pm !
but qantas were really nice and they organised a 4 star hotel for us, so we had a good sleep from 03 am til 11.30 am went for a swim and sauna and now waiting to get a sit on the plane
speak soon, eran
Saturday, July 7, 2007
Applying the metaphor of the Brain to organisations to identify appropriate strategies to enhance organisational learning
Applying the metaphor of the Brain to organisations to identify appropriate strategies to enhance organisational learning
Author Eran Sofer
April 2007
INTRODUCTION
Our lives are organised around organisations. According to Robert Presthus we are in an age of “organisational society”, where people’s lives are generally spent in one place performing the same set of activities as part of an organisation (Morgan 2006). Because of the dominant position organisations hold, we should strive to better understand how organisations function, focussing on how they can improve their learning to enhance their capabilities.
It is useful to analyse organisations through the “lens of differing metaphors”, which helps us “see and understand organisations in new ways”. (Thomas and Allen 2006). Applying different metaphors leads to different modes of understanding organisations, which in turn suggests different strategies and frames of action for enhancing organisations (Morgan, 2006). Collectively, applying metaphors provides a “richer basis for action” than simply relying on a single organisational perspective (Thomas and Allen 2006).
This paper applies the metaphor of the human brain to the organisation to explore organisational functionality and organisational learning. Using this metaphor, the double-loop learning method is examined, and it is argued that applying this method improves organisations’ ability to learn and function effectively. Research studies are also examined to review this hypothesis.
BACKGROUND
An organisation is a social arrangement between individuals and/or groups who pursue shared goals or have common bonds. The organisation structures relationships between its members, sets or controls their activities and performance. It exists as a separate entity, differentiated from the external environment (Wikipedia).
Stedman's Medical Dictionary defines the brain as the body’s central organ in the nervous system. It regulates and controls the body’s activities, by receiving and interpreting sensory impulses, and subsequently transmitting information and directions to the muscles and body in order to actuate an appropriate response to the sensory input received. The brain also accommodates human consciousness, thought, memory, and emotion.
There are many similarities between the functions of an organisation and of the brain, which make the application of the brain metaphor appropriate (Morgan 2006). An organisation’s functionality rests on its ability to process information and actuate responses. Like the brain, an organisation makes decisions using the information it gathers from its environment, and subsequently communicates the decision back to the arms of the organisation to enact it. Both the organisation and the brain need effective information-processing and decision-making systems.
ORGANISATIONAL LEARNING
When making and actuating decisions using the process outlined above, the brain uses memory and knowledge of past experiences. For example, as children we may have touched a hot saucepan and been painfully burnt. This memory of pain is entrenched as knowledge that we should avoid touching hot things. Accordingly, when asked to pick up a hot saucepan, we use our knowledge from our past experience, and decide to touch it with oven mitts.
Applying the brain metaphor, organisations will also function much better if they can learn from experience and retain and be able to apply this knowledge when making future decisions. Organisational Learning is the deliberate use of a learning process to constantly transform and improve the organisation (Dixon, 1999) in relation to its knowledge (Argyris and Schon, 1978, Senge, 1995). Firms develop into learning organisations when they are able to generate, incorporate, and apply knowledge (Thomas K. and Allen S. ,2006). This helps organisations develop their capacity to produce new products and services (Nevis et al., 1995), which is crucial to companies seeking to develop a competitive advantage (Bierly et al., 2000).
Organisations, like the brain, need systems that facilitate learning, in order to improve their performance. In today’s fast-paced environment, organisations need to be able to adapt and improve their abilities continually. But how is this best achieved? This paper focuses on double-loop learning (DLL), as a key learning method to achieve organisational learning.
DLL BACKGROUND: THEORY OF ACTION
In 1974 Schon and Argyris developed their “Theory of Action” regarding the difference between our actions and how we perceive them (Smith, 2001). Their premise is that humans are designing beings that they make, store and reacquire designs that enable them to perform in accordance with their governing values, and achieve their intentions (Argyris, 1995).
The Theory of Action identifies two opposing theories that guide our behaviour. Our “espoused theory”, is the set of beliefs and attitudes that we believe to be our core values, and that we espouse as guiding our behaviour. “Theories-in-use” are the beliefs and attitudes that individuals actually employ to design and implement their behaviour.
Argryis and Schon found that there is usually a significant deviation between individuals’ espoused theories and their theories-in-use. They sought to develop a technique for individuals to align their espoused theory with their theory-in-use. In effect, this means helping individuals to become aware of the actual principles (theories-in-use) that guide their behaviour. This is difficult, as they found that theories-in-use contain significant defence mechanisms to prevent the holder from recognising that their theories-in-use are different to their espoused theories. Once individuals become aware of their theories-in-use, they can begin the process of changing their theories-in-use to become aligned with their espoused theory. This level of awareness is necessary for effective double loop learning, as explained below.
SINGLE-LOOP LEARNING (SLL) – Incremental
Argyris and Schon described single-loop learning as seeking to correct problems through the lens of existing plans, values or beliefs, by improving the procedures an individual uses to achieve those goals and values. If our actions produce an unsatisfactory outcome, we change our actions to amend the outcome, as illustrated in the diagram below (Bast, 1999). Because the framework of goals and values itself is not examined or modified, individuals cannot recognise that the problems may actually be caused by flaws within their internal set of values or beliefs. Accordingly, although the problems can be corrected, the change is incremental, similar to changing a thermostat to control the room temperature (Argyris 1990). It is unlikely that meaningful learning can occur using this system. Similarly, an organisation may be able to fix errors after they happen using SLL. However, if it is unable to examine the underlying norms that led to the errors occurring, it is likely that problems will continue to appear as a consequence of the organisation’s systemic flaws.
DOUBLE-LOOP LEARNING (DLL) - Reframing
Double-loop learning integrates Argris and Schon’s theory of actions. Like examining the actual theory-in-use, the DLL process involves questioning the governing variables and the underlining assumptions that led to the faulty action occurring, and modifying them if necessary (Swieringa and Wierdsma, 1992), as set out in the illustration below (Bast, 1999). Individuals who are aware of their theories-in-use are much better equipped to carry out DLL (Smith, 2001).
The aim of DLL is to redesign our core patterns of thought and behaviour. This is achieved if, after performing the SLL process and correcting our error, we go one step further and ask what the recurring motives that caused our initial behaviour are. This goes hand-in-hand with identifying our theories-in-use, especially the defensive mechanisms that work as part of our theories-in-use to prevent us from becoming aware of them (Argyris, 1995). In redesigning the way we think and behave we can become less protective, more open, and gradually more aware. This is the point where individual change occurs. (Argyris 1990).
Argyris also applies the DLL process to organisations. For organisations to perform better, errors that occur should not simply be corrected, as occurs in SLL. Rather, the underlying structures in the organisation that led to the error occurring should be analysed. In this way, using the same process as described above, organisations can improve their goals, plans, values or beliefs, to improve their overall functionality. (Argyris 1990).
Triple-loop learning (TLL) - Transformational
In 1993 William Isaacs suggested that to facilitate effective organisational change, it is necessary to go beyond DLL, and introduced triple-loop learning (TLL), illustrated in the diagram below (Bast 1999). TLL is akin to “meta-learning”, investigating the context and nature of the learning process itself, and by extension, putting ourselves under the microscope. TLL involves considering why we think and act in the manner we do, and exploring underlying hidden patterns of thinking and acting that inform our frames of reference. Just as DLL goes one step further than SLL by asking us to examine the internal processes that led to the erroneous behaviour occurring, TLL goes one step further again, asking us to consider why those particular internal processes even exist, and whether there are other factors operating on a subconscious level to affect our behaviour. In an organisational context, TLL also involves examining core principles on which the organisation is set, and testing its mission, vision, market position and culture (Swieringa and Wierdsma, 1992).
Utilising TLL techniques increases our awareness, helping us gain more control over the factors that affect our behaviour, which ultimately helps us to achieve our goals. By observing our language, premises, opinions, responses, and mental models that influence the way we interact, we enhance our ability to create genuinely new modes of behaviour, habits of learning, and improve our understanding of how to interact with our environment. This helps us and our organisations achieve our goals more effectively, as we become able to identify and remove barriers to our goals. Isaacs defines the purpose of TLL as “to create a setting where conscious collective mindfulness can be maintained” (1993, p.31). By using TLL techniques, individuals can learn to think and act together ways that will benefit the organisation.
DO DOUBLE & TRIPLE LOOP LEARNING WORK IN PRACTICE?
Applying the brain metaphor to organisations in order to enhance organisational learning led to the arguments set out above that double and triple loop learning techniques should be used by organisations. But do these techniques work in practice? If so, what benefits to they provide to an organisation?
Blackman and Henderson (2001) argued that organisational knowledge systems are closed, and organisational learning can only occur incrementally, not through DLL. They referred to the observations made by Levitt and March (1988), who claimed that once organisations are set in a particular routine, it is very difficult to implement change. The routines tend to perpetuate themselves, making it difficult for employees to extend beyond the ideas and processes already in place. Blackman and Henderson also refer to Walsh and Ungson (1991), who argue that it is very difficult to erase organisational memory because it is a result of a repeated action (whether appropriate/effective or not), and once the outcome has been associated with the action, it is defined and fixed as a process within the organisation. Blackman and Henderson note the self-referential nature of learning processes as a barrier to learning: the organisation will decide what it considers it needs to know, predetermining the knowledge that employees will then seek, meaning that all knowledge entering the organisation is filtered.
Blackman and Henderson argue that because the routines, filters and self-referential systems are so deeply embedded in the organisation, DLL cannot function effectively. They believe that because employees have become so entrenched within the routines and self-referential systems of learning ingrained in the organisation, employees are unable to reach the second loop of the DLL process to meaningfully analyse the framework and systems that led to an error occurring. They compare an organisation’s knowledge system with a washing machine: In order for clothes to be really clean (which represents attaining new knowledge), all previous dirt (which represents experiences) must be removed. This means that, before a cleansing rinse commences, the dirty water has to be totally drained away. If even a small amount of the previous dirty water remains (representing the ingrained, limiting systems of learning), it will spread through and taint the entire rinse (making it impossible for fresh learning to occur).
As Blackman and Henderson do not support their arguments with their own empirical research, the validity of their findings may be limited. Further, their premise that learning systems within organisations are closed suggests that individuals are also closed. This contradicts our general understanding of individuals as able to learn. Although it is clear that DLL is difficult to achieve within an organisation, arguably, if the necessary frameworks and support are instituted, it can be achieved
Turner et al (2006) use a dance analogy to analyse narrative data and “theories-in-use” in their research. The “steps” represent the restrictions confining the employees to carry out their roles, or their “choreography”, akin to SLL. “Dance” is the fluidity and flexibility that allows employees to fully express themselves and learn freely, similar to DLL. Their research hypothesis was based on Argyris’ (1999) argument that an individual’s learning is hardly ever encouraged by organisation members, and when individuals are motivated, their learning remains within the boundaries of the choreography, or the individual’s set role. Turner et al also cite Field (1997), who argues that this occurs because if employees become empowered learners then managers will experience insecurity and a sense that the organisation is unstable and uncertain.
The research was conducted in a British public sector organisation with 2,800 employees, with a sample of 12 trainees. An initial internal attitude survey showed employees were willing to be involved in a change process in order to enhance their service and working performances. As a result, training and development were given a priority in budgeting in order to develop employees’ learning capabilities. Despite their demonstrated willingness to embrace change, the research results showed that participants were not able to move from SLL to DLL. All participants indicated that they were not able either to ask questions or to challenge existing assumptions in their workplace. If they did attempt to do so, they felt their position in their workplace was weakened. Juniors questioning traditional procedures were frightened and marked by managers as trouble makers. This enabled management to keep control over the way things were performed and minimise the opportunities for change. The research supported Garavan’s (1997) point, cited by Turner et al; when individuals are restricted within their roles, they only carry out SLL, and uncomfortable with challenging management, they were unable to engage in the deeper questioning process required for DLL.
To some extent, this study supports Blackman and Henderson’s conclusions that organisations are closed learning systems. However, the study also indicates that management needs to support and engage in DLL for it to be effective. Finally, as there were only 12 participants in the study, the validity of these findings may be limited.
In his research, Ronald K. Yeo (2006) found organisations members were able to engage in DLL, to achieve a positive outcome. He researched reflective-action learning, a process whereby individuals internalise experiences of errors in order to formulate new strategies to counteract these errors in the future, which he argues incorporates DLL learning. Yeo looked specifically at the question of whether utilising reflective-action learning techniques impacts on work and organisational performance. The study examined a Singaporean higher learning institute that was being gradually transformed into a learning organisation through the use of reflective-action learning groups (RALGs). RALGs were intended to provide a specific forum for staff (the members of the organisation) to analyse teaching and learning effectiveness in order to improve their skills in these areas. Yeo relied on the premise that people act to facilitate learning, or to produce an outcome (Argyris, 1993). There were 50 participants in the study, which was based on ethnographic observations conducted over three years, and interviews.
Through interviewing the organisational members Yeo found a close relationship between DLL and members’ learning and teaching abilities. He also found that members who shifted from SLL to DLL were able to take on more responsibility, and better respond to things around them. They were able to test potential ideas, and create possible scenarios to deal with possible or likely outcomes. Members became more confident in their interpersonal skills and more creative in problem-solving.
Unlike the previous researchers analysed, Yeo’s research suggests that DLL can be achieved within an organisation. Possibly as Yeo’s study was carried out with members of a learning organisation, the members may have been more open to DLL processes, as they are engaged in learning and teaching processes on a daily basis.
Yih-Tong and Scott (2005) investigated what kinds of barriers exist to prevent knowledge transmission across all learning ranks of an organisation. They used the Delphi method, (whereby surveys are sent to a pre-elected participants, and the replies summarised, without any face to face discussion) as an empirical tool. Fourteen subjects who had all been involved in DLL at some stage of their career were chosen from seven organisations. They all had different roles, and different levels of seniority. Participants were requested to reflect on learning barriers and their impact on transferring knowledge during their DLL experiences within individual, team and organisation contexts. It was found that the most significant barrier to knowledge transfer is individuals’ behaviour and perception about future consequences. Individuals seek to maintain the comfort zone they have created. Sharing knowledge is seen as changing the environment they operate in, which could reduce their economic well-being, social status and psychological comfort zone. To prevent this shake-up from happening, they act to prevent information transferring from individuals to the team, from the team to other members of the organisation, and from management to the team. Individuals’ fear of losing ownership over knowledge was the most significant barrier. This research emphasises the need for employees to be prepared to share knowledge in order to achieve DLL.
CONCLUSION
Perhaps the hardest thing for human beings is to change our behaviour. As Blackman and Henderson (2001) claim it is almost impossible to remove our natural defense mechanisms and embrace new practices and systems of learning, whether individually or in an organisational context. This does not mean change is impossible. Research has identified major factors blocking change, which include managers being afraid of challenges to their authority (Turner et al (2006)) and employees being afraid of losing their position as a result of sharing information and Yin-Tong and Scott (2005). These blockages do not imply that organisations must necessarily be closed learning systems. These barriers could be addressed through training programs, and by engaging managers in the change process. Yeo (2006) was able to show that when organisation members are trained in a culture of teaching, DLL can occur very successfully.
Reference list
Argyris C. (1990), "Overcoming Organizational Defences: Facilitating Organizational Learning", Prentice Hall, 1990.
Argyris, C. (1991), "Teaching smart people how to learn", Harvard Business Review.
Argyris, C. (1993), “Knowledge for Action”, Jossey-Bass,
Argyris C., (1995) “Action science and organizational learning”, Journal of Managerial Psychology; Vol. 10, Issue: 6.
Argyris, C. (1999), “On Organizational Learning”, Blackwell Publishers,
Argyris, C., Schon, D. (1978), “Organisational Learning: A Theory of Action Perspective”, Addison Wesley,
Argyris, C., Schon, D. (1996), “Organizational Learning II: Theory, Method and Practice”, Addison-Wesley,
Altman Y., Iles P. (1998), “Learning, leadership, teams: corporate learning and organisational change”, Journal of Management Development; Vol. 17, Issue: 1.
Aramburu N., Sáenz J. and Rivera O., (2006), “Organizational learning, change process, and evolution of management systems: Empirical evidence from the Basque Region”, The Learning Organization; Vol. 13, Issue: 5.
Bast M. R. (1999), “Transformational change in organizations”, The Enneagram Monthly, pp. 1-4.
Beer, S. (1981), “The Brain of the Firm: The Managerial Cybernetics of Organisation”, 2nd ed., John Wiley & Sons,
Bierly, P., Kessler, E., Christensen, E.W. (2000), "Organisational learning, knowledge and wisdom", Journal of Organisational Change Management, Vol. 13 Issue: 6, pp.595-618.
Blackman D., Connelly J.,
Field, L. (1997), "Impediments to empowerment and learning within organizations", The Learning Organization, Vol. 4 No.4, pp.149-58.
Finnegan, R. D. Galliers, Powell P., (2003), “Applying triple loop learning to planning electronic trading systems” Patrick Journal of Information Technology & People; Vol. 16, Issue: 4 pp. 461 – 483.
Flood, R., Romm, N. (1996), “Diversity Management: Triple Loop Learning”, Wiley,
Georges A., Romme L., Witteloostuijn A. V., (1999) “Circular organizing and triple loop learning”, Journal of Organizational Change Management; Vol. 12, Issue: 5.
Isaacs W. (1993) "Taking Flight: Dialogue, Collective Thinking, and Organizational Learning," Organizational Dynamics; vol. 22, pp. 24-39.
McElroy, M.W. (1999), “Double-loop knowledge management”, IBM Knowledge Management Consulting Practice.
Morgan G. 2006, “Images of Organization”, Sage Publication, Inc.
Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, accessed: 19.04.07; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organization
Senge, P. (1995), “The Fifth Discipline: The Art and Practice of a Learning Organisation”, Random House, Sydney.
Smith, M. K. (2001) “Chris Argyris: theories of action, double-loop learning and organizational learning”, the encyclopaedia of informal education.
“The American Heritage Stedman's Medical Dictionary” (2002), Houghton Mifflin Company.
Thomas K., Allen S. (2006), “The learning organisation: a meta-analysis of themes in literature”, The Learning Organization Journal; Vol. 13, Issue: 2 pp. 123–139.
Turner J., Mavin S., Minocha S., (2006), “We will teach you the steps but you will never learn to dance”, The Learning Organization; Vol. 13, Issue: 4.
Walsh J.P. & Ungson G.R., (1991), “Organizational Memory”,
Yeo R. K. (2006), “Learning institution to learning organization: Kudos to reflective practitioners”, Journal of European Industrial Training; Vol. 30, Issue: 5.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)